I will also say that a truly drip-proof pool system is not really the norm, most filter systems with a few years on it will ooze and drip here and there, and most often its of little concern. 220v. Check the wiring on the hi/lo switch, and follow it closely (trace it) to be sure all ends are connected, not corroded, or covered in insects or debris. *If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. Loose wiring, or broken wires, or wires nearly touching each other, and arcing. Hi Christy, there may be a GFCI test button that popped, on an outlet below the breaker box, or on a light pole? My pump impeller does not budge. Pump lid not on tight enough I dont want to assume but I am guessing the pump was just going bad, thus leaking voltage in the pool. "@type": "Organization",
Hi Wilson, I cant find any info on that error message paused / valve change but it would sound like it thinks that either a filter valve or directional valve is being turned, so it has paused water flow. Call Hayward and speak to their tech support people, for more precise advice. I assume assy A motor is just bad. Hi Jim, yes it could be leaking, around the stem that sticks up thru the valve body and attaches to the handle. It does this everyday and then starts working like normaly for the rest of the day. We tried opening the pool today when we plugged in the Hayward filter it keeps blowing the circuit breaker. Your options are to 1). Hi There I have a Hayward Super Pump VS pump. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.To view this guide step by step on our website, visit:http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_troubleshoot_a_hayward_aqua_rite.aspx Could be overheating make sure the pump has lots of air around the motor, no piles of mulch or dirt packed around the pump. Hi Andy, good question thanks Motor will start on low, but not on high. filter. Also in reviewing the setup, the salt water panel box does not even turn on on low. If you have other questions, you can email me Davy, at swimmers@intheswim.com. If there is no motor sound at all, and the breaker trips, it could be a bad motor, or it could be a bad breaker, they wear out, especially if used often (instead of the timer switch). Settings while on Auto: 4200, 88, 26.8, 3.85, 91p, -4200, AI-0, R1.59, T3. Hi if a 2-speed motor only works on low speed, that is usually a loose wire or hi/lo switch. I have a Hayward Super Pump VS 2 hrs old. When iturned it back on, it ran for a few seconds, sounded funny, then shut off. All The new pump then starts to overheat and it shuts off. Could this be an issue with my pump? Good news.not really. If the control is not in lockout and senses that the igniter circuit is open when the blower is running the control will turn off the blower and go into lockout. The price seems steep ($500+ for the pump) and it seems only Leslies carries them. Motor air flow path should be checked. IF thats good, check the pipe coming into the pump, does it drip when the pump is off? Last year it worked great. The regular tristar is only $100 cheaper now, so Id go for the Tristar VS. Thank you Backwash your filter when pressure gauge rises 7-9 psi above the clean, starting pressure. GFCI breakers can go bad, but then again, they can be good, and this symptom could be warning you of a potentially unsafe situation. Hi Jim, as I like to say, the problem lies, where the power dies. Point the capacitor away from you and others, while discharging. Hi John, do you mean the filter top pops off? Hayward Super Pump, 1 Hp running on 240V, 3 yrs old One thing I discovered is that if I place it in super chlorinate mode today, once the pool pump shuts down for the day, the next day when it turns back on, it will be back in regular chlorinate mode even if the switch is still in super chlorinate mode. It DOES turn on. It was working fine (all 3 speeds) until yesterday. Internal electrical faults in the pump, such as a short circuit or improper ground, also can cause the device to draw more power than necessary and excess heating. Please help. Or do I have a friction issue in the impeller? Motors are hot normally, 140 degrees or so, but if it shuts off and then resets and turns on again after 15-20 mins, it could be overheating, from voltage problems, loose connections, motor board, switch or capacitor wiring problems, or internal winding shorts. Packing Pool Putty or Silicone around the fitting is a good fix, replacing the fitting is a better fix. It could also be a bad capacitor, which is like a battery, to start the motor. Hey buddy. "As for cleaning the pool filters, I do this every couple of days and doesn't help pressure.". Flipped the breakers back on this morning after problem fixed. But, you know whats not great? If your salt cell is plugged into an GFI outlet, make sure that the test button is not popped, or tripped. Unlike the error codes that show up on the digital screen, these problems dont show up as an error notification. What you have to do is drain the filter and remove all those tiny bolts, and pull out the entire nest assembly. That is usually what causes the rattle. I will re-check all the wiring. training events, warranty Thanks. After filter was fully re-assembled- pump would turn on. If not, you should cut out the fitting and replace, smearing on some Blue RTV sealant, and then wrapping the threads completely in 3-4 layers of Teflon tape before screwing it into the pump. Any thoughts? . I just replaced a Hayward 2 hp SP2615X20 that started making a loud noise while still pumping, so I figured the bearings or something were gone, with a Hayward SP3015X20AZ 2 hp. Im really uncertain exactly how to even look for a solution to my problem. What do you have the output percentage set to? Air leaks are from a loose pump lid or dry pump lid o-ring, or from a loose pipe coming into the pump, or from leaky suction-side valves (SK/MD). Pump is 29 years old so wouldnt surprise me if impeller is failing. No lubricant is needed for spider gaskets. Should I shut down my system until I can get this fixed or is it safe for the motor to continue operation? That could explain the pumping problems. I have it on a 15 amp breaker with a few other items, the motor after running is very hot to the touch. I think you need two timers, usually, unless it can deliver 240 to the filter pump and 120 to the booster, at the same time. Everything is Primed and ready to go, soon as I put the vacuumin on the skimmer, the pressure stays for about 30 secs then the pressure and water level drop to next to nothing. Contains 13 high-performance titanium electrode plates that are coated with a special formula that combines the most corrosion-resistant metal on earth, iridium and ruthenium, to ensure extended cell life and increased chlorine production efficiency. Loose connection inside the plug or socket. Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly. Ive checked the voltage coming in before the breaker and after the breaker, (at the motherboard location), replaced the breaker just to be safe, but still, overheats. Since the pool is still being finished, the lines going to and from the pool are not installed yet so wanted to put water in there to test. You can consult the flow charts for each model, to compare flow rates among two pumps, with a given (or assumed) level of resistance (feet of head). Use a flashlight, and you should see gears moving thru the small view hole. The capacitor is the black cylinder on the left side, you can replace the capacitor at a low cost. The water does not flow when the pump is turned on. Also look for any burn marks on the wire terminal board, or any crimped wires running round the rear of the motor. News Reporter Reveals On Live TV That Shes Been Secretly Recording . When I flip a switch to manually turn on to high speed, it does not work it is still working at low speed. Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves. Plaster and vinyl surfaces in particular, can become damaged when exposed to hot summer weather, and stained, if that applies or matters in your case. Put your foot on the motor and apply a little weight, to see if the noise stops. I flipped on the breaker and the pump made this god awfully loud noise, immediately flipped it off. "
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Has more of an impeller type sound. Hi Freddy, usually a clicking noise may be a relay, which are used in control systems for pools. Going to try 2 hrs low and 6 high. the pump is working but not priming. Hi Davy, my pump is on a timer and will occasionally fail to turn on in the morning. If you have power coming into the motor, but no pump noise, check (Power off) that wire connections are tight, and inspect the wire for breaks or damage. I found the switch to turn off the capacitor was not operating correctly. ) and you should be able to feel debris lodged in the impeller with your fingertips. If the pump is on high when it is supposed to come on the pump motor humms and cuts off. I turn it off at the breaker & then turn it back on again, it displays rESET. Any thoughts? My question to you is what to do from here. Have an old Hayward super II pump, worked fine last fall, this spring at startup very low volume. second most common is the pump lid or drain plug, lube the lid oring and teflon tape on the drain plug. If I shut the pump off for a little while and put it back on it repeats the same thing over and over, strong at first for about 5 minutes then weak. I would appreciate any kind of trouble shooting and support. Maybe a complete reboot at the circuit breaker could be the answer, or a reset on the pump control panel. info. "@type": "ImageObject",
Filled strainer basket back with water. I have an aboveground kayak saltwater system . Power is always present at supply input. Now if none of that advice helps, and you still cannot get the lid to go on, or seal up, I would suspect that either the lid or the housing is warped from an overheating situation, running for long periods of time without water flowing through it. Profile, Create a Pool Owner Please consider. I disconnected it and plugged the Aquatrol in alone; that worked fine. On Jandy valves, the spurt may be from the lid, or from the center of the lid around the stem, from a broken or missing grease cap (grey valves), or from a crack/damage. But heaters? Hi, if the spark/flame was where the plug meets the cord, it could be a plug problem or an outlet problem. It bubbles and their are very few ripples in the water. It is a generic Hayward pump with 1 HP. The problem lies where the power dies! of and to in a is " for on that ) ( with was as it by be : 's are at this from you or i an he have ' not - which his will has but we they all their were can ; one also the dr myers ultrasound. Second thought is are the pipes plumbed into the valve correct? it will not pull up off the pump basket. Is this a pump problem, priming problem (filter, pipes losing water somewhere)? What you want is the owners manual for the heater. Then sometimes with no rhyme or reason the pump shuts down and will not come back on until after I turn off and on all breakers. Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO. Enzyme treatment to the pool can remove oils (if the sand seems oily), and Stain & Scale chemicals can tie up minerals like calcium (if the sand seems crusty). After 30 seconds it overheats and shuts down. Attached please find a copy of the Aqua Plus Operation Manual Please note Section - Configuration Menu Items, Cell Type Selection, page 16. I would also suspect the outlet or breaker, but you have tried a different one with the same result. thoughts? Hi Mary, pump motors have a thermal overload switch, which trips when motor gets too hot, it resets itself when the motor cools down, and the motor should restart again on its own. Sometimes it is just a stick or debris stuck between the valve diverter (aka rotor or footpad) and the spider gasket, and a little wiggle or jiggle or repositioning of the handle can seal up the waste port, for a time If it reoccurs, this means that the spider gasket is twisted, worn or damaged. Ive checked all my hoses for clogs and skimmer and pump baskets are clean. First time pool owner (obviously dont know what we are doing). I heard like a crank sound, as if somethings stuck between a propeller if there is. Please consider. One thing I discovered is that if I place it in super chlorinate mode today, once the pool pump shuts down for the day, the next day when it turns back on, it will be back in regular chlorinate mode even if the switch is still in super chlorinate mode. If it sounds loud and grumbly, that can be a sign of cavitation, being starved for water, from not enough water being supplied (it wants more). Your 1 hp Hayward Superpump can pump 75 gallons per minute, which is too much flow for most AG pool filters. I had to have a pool person come out & they got me good. Thanks for the comment, impellers dont normally wear out, they either work or they are flat busted and dont work. All Rights Reserved. (Yes, literally now.). Hmmm, not too sure about this question Jay, there must be some explanation. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds). I would inspect it for corrosion, wire tightness, water damage or insect damage. Some inground pools used Flex PVC pipe to connect skimmers, and over 20-30 years, Flex pipe can develop internal nodules like polyps, that restrict flow. So, that leads me to the hose having splits, and drawing air in from a few small slits or holes in the hose, or else the hose is crimping due to the strong suction of the pump. Any tips? Automatic restart is 2 minutes after the error is corrected. One thing you can attempt is a superglue repair, which I have done successfully on many multiport valves, but not on a pump body. thanks. If dead, you can replace just the motor and shaft seal, re-using the pump and impeller. No need to look for a solution after the impeller, its always before, on the suction side. Look closely at the centrifugal switch in the middle/center/end of shaft, make sure its tight and intact. Dont feel that resistance when bumping. Display seems to be reading correctly and shows the cell is not generating. I replaced the impeller ring and noticed it I just have a problem with the motor pump, I turn ON Saturday morning and left all day working, On Sunday morning I try to turn on the pump but it only make a noise but water dont flow then it stop working, then on Monday do the same thing it only make noise for 3 minutes then it stop working. Inspect the motor shaft for any obstructions. The outlet has been replaced and the issue is still happening. My pool suppoier said 50lb but the info on the description of the filter on the site where purchased says 100 lbs. Hello, Check for water under the display, or in the control box area. you can keep running it, while you get parts sure. Check the shaft for free spinning movement, and check the capacitor for signs of failure (bulges, cracks, smoke). If I block the outflow from it, it stops clicking on and off, and runs smoothly. If it is a 15amp breaker, but the pump wants 9amps and the aquatrol wants 7 amps, (for example, made-up numbers) thats a total of 16amps, too much. Hi Davy, Im trying to remove the impeller from a Hayward 1 HP superpump. So yes it could be the filter, very clogged and in need of a deep cleaning, but probably not a filter mechanical issue. If the pond is located below the pool equipment, then the pump and filter and pipes will drain down to that level, once the drain plugs are removed. If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm. Or if pump was off for some time, it can leak water, where it leaks air, when on. Hi, I have a H250PED2. By looking at the return valve, you should be able to see if it is squarely closing off the pool return pipes. For multiport valves, the Spider Gasket inside can become worn, torn or twisted. Hi Davy,I have a Hayward pump and its not priming.The basket is only filling up halfway with water. Any advise on what is the problem? Also look for loose wires or corrosion (stored next to chlorine tabs during winter?) service center location, advanced After running almost 24 hours the pressure went upto 30 which is the maxium number on our filter gauge and the water circulation stopped. If not, but the shaft and impeller spin freely remove the start capacitor, normally located in the motor rear, at 9 oclock, and write down the MFD number, and then order one online, or at a local electric motor repair shop. Any idea how to correct this. If thats not the problem, try soaking the fingers again, with a stronger solution, and/or leaving them soaking longer. I had it replaced. This is common maintenance for any pool Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System, Copyright 2020 INYOpools All rights reserved. 3200 ppm is the ideal level. i have a 4 wire set up, ground, line , low speed,high , just want to make sure i wire correctly, 1- line 1, 2- high speed, 3or4 to low speed? Is the wire the correct size wire? Motor may still be good. ), or the valves that are before the pump. Our Hayward pump is leaking and we just added our opening chemicals. "height": "219",
If it does make a hum or buzz sound, it could be a bad capacitor, the black cylinder at 9 oclock, in the rear of the motor. Did you rewire the time clock too, or just the pump motor? I turned the gas off to it. I took out the filter cartridge and hosed it down replaced, emptied all the baskets but still no change, only one of the jets is pushing out water, but barely. Hi when you say it shuts down, I assume you mean that the water stops flowing? I have a pump that wants to stop pumping water after a few minutes the flow gets very low. Too bad Hayward doesnt make this more clear on their installation instructions and labeling. Timer 1 comes on at 10:30 at 1450rpms and runs to 3:30. Ship Weight (lbs) : 24.10 I even removed the outflow from the filter and ran that directly in case the filter was clogged. If you have an intermatic clock (big yellow dial), there are a series of gears behind the dial, that all need to be engaged. I opened my pool this weekend and started the pump and let it run for few hours before stopping it. With the pump off, remove the basket and reach your hand back into the eye of the impeller. Not sure if this is somehow related to the water being heated or maybe air in the pump just guesses. I dont see that code listed. Pumps can also leak water from the shaft seal, which can appear to be a housing/seal plate leak, but will leak only directly from the bottom. I check electrical from the panel breaker, to the timer to the circuit breakser to the switch to the outlet, through the wire to the pump and power is getting to the pump. Our switch seems to be getting power- a voltage tester confirms this but pump makes zero sound when switch is turned on. Its not raw gas, but a sour smell. We have tried switching outlets and that sometimes works. Hi, each pool filter system has a different pressure, but if there was a normal pressure, many systems are designed to run around 10 psi (clean). Now what? 4. If it blows again then I guess youll have to replace the pump body, which is usually about $100-200 cheaper than the cost of the whole pump. the motor makes humming sound but nothing happened, then the motor became burning hot. Thanks. IF the shaft spins freely, and your motor hums and trips the breaker, first check the wiring connections on the incoming wires, nice and tight, and no bare wire touching anything except the terminal connector. Check all wires and switches and connections in the back of the motor, look for anything loose or ant infested or broken connections. Is the motor set to accept 220V, and matching what you measure at the motor terminals? Thanks? If your pump plugs-in to an outlet, it could also be a bad outlet, or bad wire or connection from breaker to outlet. I have a Hayward super pump every once in awhile when I go to unplug to backwash it sparks and trips the breaker. Hi Rob, normally sunshine will not cause a motor to overheat, but if it is having other internal issues generating heat, it could push it over the limit. We have a hayward pump and heater. Put things back together and still have error. How are you supposed to move the shaft several revolutions with a 7/16 wrench with all the pegs in the way and the shaft only having two flat sides to get the wrench to lock on to it??? Both the pump motor and Polaris are wired out of the timer and the timer seems to be working correctly and I checked it by checking the voltage at the motor with the switch in the off position and then again with the switch in the on position. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I first thought it might be the motor capacitor, new cap, problem still the same. IF the switch works, but the motor does not come on, then I would first look at the Visual Motor Check on Intermatic clocks. Pumps need 120V, +/- 10%, so maybe the voltage is fluctuating, from loose connection from breaker to outlet, or a loose breaker.
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